The Archeology gallery of the National Museum of Ireland is a chock full of fascinating treasures. The building itself is also remarkable. I’ve enjoyed visiting this place with both Esther Sterchi and Amanda Bernhard (the famous Fulbright student). Of particular interest at this museum: numerous bog bodies, “prehistoric” relics, the Viking exhibition, and the unimaginably long wooden boat that was carved from a single tree trunk (see the panorama below).
Category / Visiting Ireland
Singing Along at the Cobblestone Pub
I swear I have more fun each time I visit the Cobblestone. I’ve developed such respect for the people there. And, honestly, they make me feel like a rock star. They are so complimentary of my Fulbright blog. It feels like “everybody knows my name.”
There’s far more of significance to the world more going on at the Cobblestone than at Cheers. As case in point, I got to catch up with Fergus Whelan on this particular evening. He had left a copy of his book Dissent into Treason for me to pick up last week (click here for more about the book). I let Tom Mulligan know Kitty and I were mailing a CD of his music to Kevin Donleavy as well; perhaps it will be “on air” in Charlottesville soon. These folks are dedicated to preserving cultural traditions and recounting history.
Being at the Cobblestone really makes me wish I was musically talented!
Fortunately, my friend Patty is. The musicians at the Cobblestone got her to sing a song. And of course, we all followed along with “Country Roads,” a sure-fire selection when the mention of Virginia arises. Never mind that it’s about West Virginia and the three of us hail from Virginia! In any case, you can practically see W.Va. from where Kitty and Patty live (Harrisonburg) and where I was born (the New River Valley). And you can certainly see the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Shenandoah River from Kitty’s place.
Patty was ready for the event. She and I had practiced singing the night before, actually. On our last evening in Cork, Tony, Kitty, and Patty cooked dinner to avoid Valentine’s Day crowds in the restaurants. Then Patty and I had a festive sing-along around the dinner table and the peat fire Tony had built.
We drew from the Catholic folks songs of our childhoods, favorite camp songs, and music popular in the ’70s. It all worked out fine when I set the key and Patty followed along. (It’s a disaster for me trying the other way around… I just can’t get up that high! Even one octave lower is too high for me.)
When we needed help with the lyrics, Tony pulled up the text on line so we could sing karaoke-style.
Ah, the cider….
You’ll find me at the Cobblestone with a glass of Bulmer’s in my hand again “real soon”….
Worth the Long Wait at Muckross House
Muckross house is located near the town of Kilarney in southwestern Ireland. We went there — twice — last week. We had to work hard to see inside of the house, but I knew my three traveling companions would enjoy seeing the place. Dave and I had been there in 2003 and had a splendid time and other friends of ours mentioned this as a highlight.
So we scurried there after seeing the Ring of Kerry, checking the official website for opening times. It indicated the house was open 9-5:30, seven days a week, in winter. But although we arrived at about 4:20, the place was shut tight. There was absolutely no sign of life inside the ticket booth or house and there were no signs posted with the tour times of opening hours.
However, the restrooms and grounds were still open and the park ranger assured us the house would reopen at 9 the next morning. So we headed back to Cork for the night — an 1.5 hour drive — and hurried to the house again early the next morning. We attempted to phone the Muckross office starting at 9 AM, but no one would answer the phone. When we arrived at 9:30, the two ticketing agents told our host, Tony Duggan, that the first tour would be given at 11:30. They said to visit the grounds until the tour started. He let them know we already had!
Fortunately for us, the man is a CEO and knows how to get things done. After all, we had other sites to see on our last day to the region. He managed to finagle a tour at around 10. We experienced a fairly curt delivery of information with little opportunity to ask questions, but nevertheless, we enjoyed seeing the house.
I hope when you go to visit this fine building and learn its interesting history (it was last owned by an American family who gave it to the Irish people) you have better luck with scheduling than we had!
Graduating with the Saints at DIT (and Getting Fergus’ Take on it All)
DIT’s graduation ceremony is an event to behold!
Today’s occurred at St. Patrick’s Cathedral (which is the largest church building in Ireland). You may recall that Kitty Lee, Patty, and I visited it last week.
At DIT exams for the fall semester occur in January, and winter graduation falls shortly after.
During the ceremony, each graduate’s name, degree title, and thesis topic is announced. Today’s list of topics highlighted valuable contributions DIT is making to society in areas such as physics, health and nutrition, energy, and computing.
For me, a true highlight of the ceremony was a performance by two students: a signer and a harpist. The talented duo really brought this grand space to life. (Kitty, Patty, and I missed Evensong in this church last night — by just a few sad minutes — and so I tried to live today’s event vicariously on their behalf while they soared above the Atlantic on their journey home.)
Today also presented my first opportunity to meet DIT’s president, Prof. Brian Norton in person. When the opportunity appeared, I stepped forward without hesitation, extended my hand, and introduced myself. I was truly dumbfounded when Dr. Norton said he knew who I was and that he had read my blog. Wow! I look forward to meeting him again soon.
At the reception, I also met a few members the electrical engineering faculty I haven’t yet gotten to know. I hope to have more to tell about their work soon.
I’ve included some photos of the day, including a snapshot of the English and Protestant flags hanging in St. Patrick’s (Protestant) Cathedral.
Upon returning to my apartment, I curled up with Fergus Whelan‘s book Dissent into Treason. In the first chapter, Fergus does a remarkable job of explaining the formative roots of various Western denominations. I’ve learned so much in just 20 pages… including distinctions between Unitarians, Presbyterians and Congregationalists, Quakers, Levelers, Catholics, and the like. I believe Dissenters were people whose supported the creation the Irish nation despite pressure from their larger brethren and/or religious underpinnings to support the English crown. I’ll gain clarity on that soon, I’m sure.
Have you ver wondered why more Protestants read the Bible today than Catholics (in the US at least)? I certainly have.
Fergus’ book explains that in Ireland in the 1600s, Catholics were only permitted to read scriptures in Latin or Greek. Protestants were given freedom to read in English. Hummmm.
In Ireland there’s so very much to discover. I’m trying to make the most of every moment, but there’s not nearly enough of time to do, see, and learn all I’d like….
Shipping Out from Cobh
My cousin Roland Ouellette and his spouse Rebecca Allen located the ship log for our great grandmother’s 1911 voyage from Cobh, Ireland to Ellis Island. Roland and Rebecca have been doing a lot of research on ancestry.com and growing our family tree. Great sleuth work, cuz — I’m thrilled to have this document!
Traditional Irish Music and Dance Show
Gaiety with a Love-Hungry Farmer
Good Laughs from “Only in Ireland”
The Only in Ireland Facebook page is a hoot. These two pics are sure to make you smile. They are relevant and true!

Irish life in the city. (Photo from Only in Ireland.)

Irish life in the country. (Photo from Only in Ireland.)
Amanda’s Account of the Weekend
You can read Fulbrighter Amanda Burnhard’s description of events this past weekend, by visiting her blog. Remember, it’s in Irish up top and English down below.
A chairde,
Beannachtaí oraibh ar an mhaidin ghalánta seo, ón bhaile eile atá againn i bhFal Corrib, Co. Dhún na nGall. Tá muid suite in aice leis an fharraige gharbh, agus tá an ghaoth thar a bheith láidir, ag corraí an fharraige agus ag cruthú tonnta ollmhór ar na carraigeacha. Seo an áit is fearr linn in Éirinn, agus cuireann sé solas inár gcroí a bheith anseo arís, ar feadh cúpla lá.
Tháinig muid go Tír Chonaill ó Bhaile Átha Cliath an uair seo, mar bhí orm bheith páirteach i dtionscadal físeain ag Fulbright. Bhí mé thar a bheith neirbhíseach leis an fhísean agus, i ndáiríre, níl mé cinnte dearfa cad é a dúirt mé os comhair an cheamara, ach tá súil agam go raibh sé ceart go leor agus go léirigh mé na buntáistí Fulbright mar is cuí. Taobh amuigh den fhísean, chaith muid cúpla lá iontach sa chathair…
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Uncovering History at the Cobblestone Pub
Last week’s impromptu visit by (Fulbright student) Amanda Bernhard and her husband Jonathan Kennedy was a most welcome excuse to visit the Cobblestone!

Jonathan Kennedy playing uilleann pipes with an Irish man he has played pipes with the United States.

A casteen player with Tom Mulligan. Tom’s doing his best to keep Irish traditions alive and thriving here in Dublin.
My friends arrived late in the evening Thursday after a day of Irish classes followed by a cross-country drive.
They took me out for dinner at L. Mulligan. Grocer then we popped back to my apartment to fetch their instruments and retraced our steps one block to Tom Mulligan’s Cobblestone pub.
The last two times Jonathan and Amanda went to the Cobblestone I wasn’t with them (they were staying at my apartment while I was away). They went on weekends and the musicians’ corner was already full. They didn’t play then, although they did introduce themselves to Tom.
Last Thursday, however, they found space to play alongside the Irish musicians. We had a great time and enjoyed meeting new people, seeing Tom, and catching up on recent events.
After talking with Tom, I finally understand how Fergus Whelan came to have close friends on both sides of the “Troubles.” He is/was both Protestant and Republican (though today he’s a peacemaker as per my earlier blog). Protestants are typically associated with the other side — usually sticking with the Queen, so to speak — while Fergus apparently supported the unification of Ireland and Irish rule for the entire island. See how much like the American Civil War it all was? As a Virginian, I too had family on both sides of a bitter conflict. And some tensions run high on that conflict even today….











