Culture Night Dublin with Fulbright-ing Friends

Culture Night Dublin 2105 1Dublin Culture Night happens once a year, offering a glimpse into many cultural treasures this city has to offer. This year, I got to attend the event with my friends Amanda Wagstaff and Frank Daly.

Amanda recently moved to Dublin as a Fulbright student for the 2015-16 academic year. She and I actually graduated from the College of William and Mary on the very same day in 2010–she with a Bachelor of Arts and I with a PhD in Higher Ed. Amanda is a studio artist who is using the archives at the Chester Beatty Library to generate inspiration for her own contemporary artwork. You can see Amanda’s past work on her website, Traipse.

Frank’s art and photography is viable on his website and his many Google+ photo albums.

The there of us kicked off our Culture Night explorations at Christchurch Cathedral, not far from my Smithfield residence, and then proceeded eastward to see several more sights. We took in dinner at the Queen of Tarts, Dublin’s stately Customs House, and a guitar concert at the Unitarian Church on St. Stephen’s Green.

Culture Night is just one of many ways to learn history in Dublin. I’ve included photos in the gallery below of several cultural events that happened around the same time:

  • a lecture on the Irish Civil War (hosted by the Smithfield-Stoneybatter People’s History club and held at in the backroom of the Cobblestone Pub)
  • a man in Smithfield preparing his horses and carriage for the All Ireland football match
  • the best places I know to sit and read about history (my friends seem to enjoy reading in these places, too!)

Sister Sister

My sister, Heather, is visiting.  She’s come to take acting classes.

Last night, we took in a play… Major Barbara, written by Shaw, performed at the Abbey Theater in Dublin.  I discovered that I’ve really got to concentrate to keep up with Shaw, but it’s worth the effort.  His work is packed with meaning….

Heather has been spending quite  a bit of time down at the Cobblestone. She goes in much later in the evening than I do. Evidentially late hours are the best for finding Tom, the owner, who is a night owl.

On Friday evening, I’d gone into the Cobblestone to hear some singing and I left at 9.  Heather stopped in later and met even more of Tom’s family.  She’d gone to thank Tom because he had taken her to see construction of a new theater that he serves as a member of the board.

I really enjoyed Friday evening there.  Some of the songs transported me back to my first trip to Ireland in 2003.  The country was quite a bit different at that time: songs were full of political strife and pubs were full of families, chatter, and smokey haze. The ban on smoking in pubs, apparent tightening of age limits in pubs, and the economic boom / Celtic Tiger all took their toll on Ireland’s pub culture.  The country’s newfound peace also shifted the tone, and for the peace I’m grateful.

The Cobblestone, however, has managed to retain its charm. And it continues to do that despite being listed in every tourist guide. A lot of that, I believe, has to do with Tom’s warm and generous spirit. He makes every person feel special and welcome.

Heather left town today, but sent me over to hear Tom and his friends from the Cobblestone play at the Northside Music Festival in Wolftone ‘Park’.

Filming at the Cobblestone Pub

Setting up to film, the room was filled to capacity with Mulligan relations.

Setting up to film, the room was filled to capacity with Mulligan relations.

Cinematographers and musicians filled the tiny musicians’ corner at the Cobblestone pub last week.  They were filming a documentary about traditional Irish music, focusing on the influence of the Travelers (the ethnic group that’s had the roughest time here in Ireland).  I’ll try to keep you posted as to when and where the documentary will air.

And then the filming commenced.

And then the filming commenced.

The Cobblestone Recordings on Air April 6

Kevin Donleavy’s emails are so charming and informative that I just can’t resist posting them in their original form.  Here, he discusses some history of traditional Irish music and his plans to play Tom Mulligan’s Cobblestone recordings on his upcoming radio show.  Anyone can tune in on April 6 by using the Internet (see below).

Hiya again, Shannon,

Whoa, thanks for sending along the Cobblestone recording.  I’m just in the door tonight, and will have a chance to play it tomorrow.  I recognize some of the musicianers’ names, but others are known only to their local fellow-players, I betcha.
 
The entire growth of Irish trad music the past 4 decades is pretty astonishing, as you might already know.
 
Local and private music teachers in loads of communities took a big cue from Comhaltas Ceoltoiri Eireann, the country-wide music and dance organization which was founded about 50 years ago. Comhaltas lined up the best of fiddlers, uilleann pipers, concertina, and flute players (and loads more besides) to expand the circle of their students.  The overall result is that there are probably 100,000 people in Ireland who play trad music — just my guess, but it probably is close to real. It is the “in” thing for lots of kids — especially if either another family member or a peer plays an instrument.  And they all learn by ear, an astonishing thing. A coupla years ago somebody estimated that a new trad CD is issued somewhere in Ireland or the States every 3 days.  Much more successful growth of Irish folk music than the folk movement in the US.
 
Enough.  Beddyby time.
Thanks again,  
Kevin
Here are Kevin’s instructions for tuning in:
Shannon, hiya —

 
Hope this e-mail addy is good for ya.
 
I listened to the Cobblestone CD today, and heard some great stuff.  More uilleann pipers than I would have imagined would be included — a good sign. Have already chosen 4 cuts for the April 6 (Saturday) radio show on-line, so can you let Tom know the date, please ? Also that the show is  called ATLANTIC WEEKLY PART TWO,  and is found at www.wtju.net,  and that it will be broadcast in Ireland from 3 to 5 pm that day. He and some of the musicianers might wanna have a listen. Since the program is archived for 2 weeks afterward,  they can also listen in later at the Vault spot at the website.
 
Mike Heivly rang today,  and I’ll go share muffins and coffee with him tomorrow morning.  He wants to yammer about setting up his photo-art display at the big Comhaltas convention in D.C. in early April.
 
All for the now,
Kevo

Eating in Church with Pam

Pam and I are managing to have some fun and also get some things accomplished. She’s going to try to write a book chapter or two while she’s here… after she finish grading papers and reviewing dissertation chapters. Whew!

I’m loving my break from grading.  I don’t have to grade papers until May!  This Fulbright scholarship is such an incredible blessing.

Counting Time

Amanda and Jonathan at Cobblestone. (Copyright Dave Chance Photography, 2012.)

Amanda and Jonathan at Cobblestone, from an earlier blog post. (Copyright Dave Chance Photography, 2012.)

I’m sitting here counting time, waiting for my co-authors to send updates and Dave to finish editing some pictures so we can head off to see the nephews one last time before I fly out.

Meanwhile Jonathan and (Fulbright student) Amanda are visiting Dublin, and getting my apartment broken back in for living. Jonathan has just posted on Facebook the praises of the IKEA Poang chair (that I bought using Adverts.ie). I highly recommend buying it with the matching footstool.

Amanda and Jonathan are heading off to play at the Cobblestone pub tonight… I’d love to be there to hear them play!  I’m living vicariously through the photos Dave took last time they played there.

Marking History with Fergus and Francis

Fergus Whelan, Jerry Crilly, Tom Mulligan, and Shannon Chance at the Cobblestone last night.

Fergus Whelan, Jerry Crilly, Tom Mulligan, and Shannon Chance at the Cobblestone last night.

Kevin Donleavy  had written me to inquire about the plaque I mentioned in the blog post “Peace in Ireland.”  Last night I had the chance to learn a little more.

I was at the Cobblestone to meet Jerry regarding a little Christmas project we’ve got in the works.

And Fergus Whelan, the organizer of the December 1 event, happened to be there too.

The plaque, Fergus explained, was to honor Francis Hutchinson who was born in Northern Ireland but died in Dublin.  No grave marker had  ever been installed.

Plaque for Francis Hutcheson. You can click on the image to see a larger version.(Photo provided by Fergus Whelan.)

Plaque for Francis Hutcheson. Please click on the image to see a larger version. (Photo provided by Fergus Whelan.)

Fergus has righted this oversight.  A plaque now shines near the church on Mary Street in Dublin.  This group unveiled it on December 1, 2012 — the day I met them in the Cobblestone.

The December 1 events commemorated that remarkable man, Francis Hutchinson, who, among other things, influenced the American Declaration of Independence.  He did so via his friend Thomas Jefferson.  The plaque is well worth a read!

The December 1 event was so very striking, however, because the group of men gathered on that night had travelled down together in a single bus from Northern Ireland (where Hutchinson was born).  This morning Fergus sent me an email with photos, saying:

Hi Shannon

As explained the group shot are formers prisoners from both sides i.e. loyalist and republican. They came to Dublin to be present for the unveiling of the plaque.

Best, Fergus

Fergus asked these folks to travel down to Dublin together, on one bus, and to attend events together celebrating the life of Francis Hutchinson.  They put aside decades of ill will and united for this cause… because Fergus asked them to come.

I know this story will matter to Kevin Donleavy.  He has a similar project underway (that I’ll tell you about in due time).

What amazing experiences — sharing evenings with people who have such divergent points of view and yet finding unity within them. I’m thankful for Fulbright and thankful for my friends at the Cobblestone pub.

The group from the north of Ireland who came for the unveiling. (Photo provided by Fergus Whelan.)

The group from the north of Ireland who came for the unveiling. (Photo provided by Fergus Whelan.)

Peace in Ireland

Musicians Jerry Crilly, Frank Cullen, and Pat Goode playing in the back room of the Cobblestone.

Musicians Jerry Crilly, Frank Cullen, and Pat Goode playing in the back room of the Cobblestone.

Tom Mulligan said I was witnessing history last night.

I’m not aware of all the subtleties of the situation but, essentially, a group of folks from Northern Ireland was in Dublin for the unveiling of a monument.  A friend of the group — a regular at the Cobblestone who hails from Dublin — invited the group over to Tom’s pub after the formal event to hear traditional Irish music.  [Note:  I’ve posted more on this topic since.  See Making History with Fergus and Francis.]

Quite by chance, Jerry Crilly, Frank Cullen, and I happened to be there.  We were celebrating Kevin Donleavy’s radio program that happened earlier in the day.  It had featured quite a few songs from Jerry’s CD.  Jerry rang us up  (as in, called us on the phone) because he wanted to give us copies of the CD.

And while we were at the Cobblestone my musical friends / drinking buddies got invited to the back to sing.

Because I was there with these musical stars, I got to enjoy an evening full of song!  I actually had a seat front and center and felt completely, 100% included.

As much as I love instrumentals, it’s the singing that moves me most.  So this was an incredible find for me — I really lucked out last night!

I sat cozily in a room full of people who, not so long ago, took up arms against each other.

Here, in the shelter of a unified Ireland and the warm embrace of the Mulligans’ pub, men from north and south sang together and reveled in the island’s newly found peace.

When Dave and I visited Ireland in 2003, the tone was much different from today.  Political tensions still ran deep and pub songs recounted strife.

I feel honored to have been part of this event that helped promote peace among nations.  I am proud that an American president helped negotiate the peace accord that paved the way for this evening’s events. (In The Journal of Conflict Studies, Rodger MacGinty noted “that the American influence on the peace process, both from influential Irish-Americans and the Clinton administration, has been profound.”)

I will remain eternally grateful that our nation supports Fulbright programs designed to promote cultural understanding and celebrate — and grow — human knowledge.  We do many things that don’t make sense.  And we fight all too often.  But in the name of Senator Fulbright, we do have programs designed to help us do better.

I take the cultural understanding part of my Fulbright very seriously.  I thank you for sharing in the effort by reading along.

It was amazing to be part of a cultural healing process last night and watch stale old tensions dissolve into the night air.  As an added bonus, I also got to meet Jerry’s and Tom’s significant others for the first time.  This place feels more and more like home every day.

Incidentally, Tom has taken to introducing me as a long-lost cousin, and that term’s growing on me.  It’s much nicer than wee-distant relation, or third cousin twice removed….

Meeting My Musical Family

I just emailed the current Fulbrighters in Ireland to see if they want to join me at the Cobblestone Pub in Smithfield (Dublin 7) on Tuesday, October 30.  I also posted this to the Fulbright Ireland alumni page on LinkedIn to see if any of them want to come along… had such a ball with them Friday. (More about that later.)

Then I realized you might want to come, too!

You may have seen my blog post about Tom Mulligan and his Cobblestone Pub and about Fulbright Amanda and Jonathan playing there.

Tom says one of his brothers (Alfie, a piper) will be playing that night between 7 and 10 pm. Alfie’s daughter and two sons will be playing as well.  It’s possible that Neillidh (mentioned in the blog) might also play. They’re all related to me in some way, and this is a chance for me to get to meet them and enjoy their melodies. Perhaps you’d enjoy being part of the fun?

This is an informal event, to be held in the front bar.  There’s no admission cost… just the cost of your own drinks. Perhaps I’ll see you there?

Ful-brighting at the Cobblestone Pub

I’m posting a few photos my husband Dave Chance took the night Amanda Bernhard and her husband Jonathan Kennedy played at the Cobblestone Pub. We’d met them at the Fulbright Orientation weekend, and invited them to stay over at our place so they’d have the chance to visit the Pub.

Both Jonathan and Amanda play uilleann pipes. Amanda also plays fiddle.

Amanda is the Irish language Fulbright to Ireland this year. They are both studying Irish–at the Master’s degree level–at the a university in Galway. Amanda has been blogging about their adventures. You might want to visit her site to learn about on the other coast of Ireland, where many people still speak Irish day to day.

Jonathan is shown here playing uilleann pipes. Amanda plays the uilleann pipes as well as the fiddle. (Copyright Dave Chance Photography, 2012.)

Amanda Bernhard playing fiddle at the Cobblestone Pub. (Copyright Dave Chance Photography, 2012.)

Amanda Bernhard and Jonathan Kennedy playing at the Cobblestone in September 2012. (Copyright Dave Chance Photography, 2012.)